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With its stunning scenery and lack of traffic, New Zealand is the perfect place to combine skiing with driving.
It's not the destination but the journey that matters, or so the old saying goes. As we drive from Queenstown to Methven, to round out our South Island ski trip with a day on the slopes at Mt Hutt, I can't help but agree. This is one of the most spectacular drives I've ever experienced.
The road out of Queenstown passes the turnoff to the quaint old mining village of Arrowtown, which should be on any tourist itinerary in these parts, then skirts the base of the Crown Range. The winding route cuts through the Gibbston Valley, home to the stunningly situated Chard Farm Winery, then snakes dramatically through the rocky, arid Kawarau Gorge, past the township of Bannockburn, home to iconic Central Otago wineries including Felton Road, Carrick and Mount Difficulty, and the fruit-growing region of Cromwell.
The landscape changes dramatically almost every half hour, but snow-capped peaks accompany us throughout. From Cromwell we follow Lake Dunstan north, then travel through verdant, hilly sheep grazing country before ascending the Lindis Pass. Dustings of snow remain on some of the higher peaks of these rolling, tussocked hillsides. We stop at the mid-way lookout for the ubiquitous selfie and admire the view.
The drive then takes us through tiny towns with memorable names, including Omarama and Twizel. The latter was purpose-built in the 1960s to accommodate workers involved with the Upper Waitaki Power Scheme and is a handy base for explorations of Mount Cook National Park and the Mackenzie Basin.
The road to Mt Cook follows the edge of Lake Pukaki. I almost drive off the road at one point, distracted by the extraordinary opaque turquoise colour of the lake water, caused by fine, glacier-ground rock particles held in suspension. There are salmon farms in these parts which breed exquisite tasting fish.
We stop for a late lunch at Tekapo Springs, overlooking stunning Lake Tekapo, where an ice-skating rink and snow tubing join the hot baths as the star attractions. It would be an easy place to linger longer.
From Tekapo, the landscape changes again. It's less alpine, more agricultural in the Canterbury Plains, as we get closer to the coast. We haven't left the mountains completely, as the turn off to Mt Hutt indicates. That's an adventure for tomorrow.
You can do the drive from Queenstown to Methven in under five hours. But it's much more enjoyable to take it slowly, over a long day with breaks, or better still, over several days.
A decent car is essential for winter driving in New Zealand, and should take into account the gear you're carrying. You might struggle with a smaller car with snowboards or skis, and a larger vehicle will have a bigger tyre footprint to help you stick to the road.
"A 4WD is often preferable," says Etienne Raubenheimer, Transport Manager at New Zealand Ski Tourism, "but remember that it won't magically make you a better driver or impervious to the conditions."
To avoid losing traction or sliding on slippery roads, she stresses, you should always drive in a smooth manner and avoid any sudden movement of the steering wheel, rapid acceleration or hard braking.
Chains should always be carried when driving on alpine roads regardless of the conditions. An easy drive up in the morning can turn into a tough ride home after a midday snowfall. Make sure your rental vehicle has snow chains and ask the staff to demonstrate how to fit them. Then follow the instructions of mountain staff on where and when to do it.
"The winter driving mindset starts even before you leave your hotel," says Raubenheimer. "Check the Snow Report so you know what the roads have in store. And always assume that there is ice on the road even when you can't see it." Black ice is especially common in the mornings, on and under bridges or overpasses, in shade and in the evening.
We're blessed with gorgeous weather on our Queenstown-Methven journey, and no snow on the road the next day as we drive the long winding route up to Mt Hutt. However, it's not a drive for the faint-hearted, with sheer drops to the side of the unfenced gravel road. Yes, it's all about the journey but I confess I'm relieved to reach the destination.
This article brought to you in association with Tourism New Zealand.
