PENNY PINCH
Kick off at the former Presidential Palace, which is now the Museo de la Revolucion ($11). In equal parts informative and unintentionally hilarious, it's an excellent way to be informed that the CIA is to blame for everything bad that's happened to Cuba since the 1959 revolution. Lunch on chicken with honey and black pepper at hip, privately-owned restaurant El Chanchullero (el-chanchullero.com, $6) in Habana Vieja – the highly atmospheric old part of town. Afterwards, walk down to the Museo del Ron (Havana-club.com) for a $10 educational tour about how rum is made. Dine in the leafy courtyard of Hanoi on the corner of Calles Brasil and Bernaza – it's $7 for a grilled fish fillet and $3 for a daiquiri – then stay in Habana Vieja's gorgeously-preserved 19th century Hostal Chez Nous (00 53 7 862 6287, $41 including breakfast).
TOTAL: $78.
EASY DOES IT
It's an early start today for a day trip (viajescubanacan.cu, $81) to the highly picturesque Vinales valley. On the way to see the glorious panoramic views, bizarre rock formations and countryside life that plays out on a horse and cart, there's a visit to a cigar factory in Pinar Del Rio. This is a great way of seeing how Cuba's most famous export is handmade. A somewhat perfunctory lunch is included before heading to the Indian Cave, which is partly scrambled through on foot, and partly puttered through on a motorboat. After returning to Havana, take a cab ($14 return) to Habana Viejarestaurant Dona Eutemia (60C Callejon del Chorro) for the splendid $11 ropa vieja (shredded beef or lamb in red wine sauce). Then stay among the 1930s glamour of the Hotel National (hotelnacionaldecuba.com, $240 including breakfast).
TOTAL: $346
SPLASH OUT
Take a cab ($14 return) to the wonderfully art-packed Callejon de Hamel in Centro Habana. This is the starting point for Urban Adventures' Afro-Cuban religion tour (urbanadventures.com, $52), which delves into the fascinating Santería religion. It marries traditional African deities and spirits to Catholic saints. Head back to Habana Vieja for the $24 spicy seafood stew at the Paladar de los Mercaderes (207 Mercaderes). Then take a tour around the city's key photo stops (urbanadventures.com, $72) in a classic old car – probably a bright pink 1950s Chevy. Take a $14 return cab to El Torre (floor 33, Edificio FOCSA) at the top of the city's second tallest building. The views are perfect for a $5 sunset cocktail, and the $37 lobster thermidor isn't too shabby either. Stay in a junior suite at the Iberostar Parque Central(iberostar.com, $384 including breakfast) at the edge of Habana Vieja.
TOTAL: $578
The writer was a guest of Urban Adventures.
