Initially there was the Estelle Bistro and now there's Estelle by Scott Pickett, chef and owner.
Abbreviated to ESP, the new formal dining experience in High Street, Northcote, is the work of Hirsch Bedner Associates (HBA) (www.hba.com), known worldwide for its hotel and restaurant designs. And rather than "scream for attention", this moody interior takes a back seat to the contemporary French- inspired cuisine on offer.
"Estelle has been operating for four years and we were ready to expand into a more formal dining experience, but a place that wasn't stitched up or intimidating," says Stuart Neil, general manager of the ESP group. "We wanted a sense of intimacy rather than feeling dwarfed in the surrounds. The idea of an open kitchen, where chefs were part of the dining experience, also formed an integral part of the brief."
Interior designer Ilija Karlusic, HBA Asia Pacific president for HBA and responsible for the design of numerous Asian hotels and restaurants, had previously created a conservatory-style space at the rear of the Estelle. And although this latest commission to create a new dining venue is relatively modest in comparison to Karlusic's work overseas, it was "intense".
"This is a relatively small project but, with these scale projects, timing is considerably reduced. A fit-out for a hotel can sometimes take a few years," says Karlusic, who was based in Hong Kong for more than 15 years before returning to Melbourne three years ago.
Unlike some designers who want their design to make a statement upon arrival, Karlusic clearly states that this project is not about the design. "It's about the food, the people and the drama that comes from the dining experience. In a sense, I wanted to create a stage where the spotlight is directly on the kitchen."
So, to heighten the theatrics in the preparation of the cuisine, everything has been downplayed. The walls are either French smoked oak or concrete panels. And the ceiling, featuring the original timber trusses, has been simply exposed. "The palette of materials isn't that dissimilar to Scott's style of cooking, dishes that aren't smothered with sauces," Karlusic says.
ESP has been loosely delineated by a number of seating arrangements. Patrons can choose between leather upholstered banquette-style seating, separate round tables or perch up at the bar to see how their meals are prepared.
HBA worked closely with local furniture designer Ben Sibley in designing the French oak tables, as well as the parquetry-style feature wall, beautifully articulated with black mild steel. The centrepiece light, designed by Christopher Boots, is a focal point, with its series of interlocked illuminated rings.
"We wanted the lighting to be quite subdued," says Karlusic, who thought there was enough reflection coming from the wine glasses displayed in the customised steel joinery.
However, it's the kitchen that draws the attention, with its black glazed tile walls, massive flue and return concrete bar. And rather than just having "trackside" viewing from the bar, patrons can enjoy the theatre of the kitchen from all seating provided.
According to Karlusic, "good design is not about overt design". "Whether it's a hotel or a restaurant, it's about creating a mood and atmosphere that engages with clients. And, in the end, the result is the sum of all its parts."
