Blackheath’s Fumo has been awarded a hat in the Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide.
The guide gave Fumo 15/20 and described its food as “modern comfort cooking for long lunches in the Mountains”.
Owner Joe Campbell said while he didn’t go seeking a hat, “it’s good to be recognised”.
“I don’t aim for hats. We just basically do good service, good food and that’s what came out of it.”
Fumo (Italian for ‘’smoke’’) is on the site of the old Vulcan restaurant, run for many years by Philip Searle and Barry Ross. Campbell worked for a decade at Vulcans, as did his front of house maestro, Amanda Baldoni.
Ms Baldoni said the restaurant had been packed since news of the hat.
She described Fumo as “fine food, not fine dining”.
The Good Food Guide sang the praises of Mr Campbell’s dessert skills, saying that “even when it’s five degrees above freezing in Blackheath, Fumo’s bombe is so good you might consider another slice. A cross-section of blackberry sorbet, praline, lavender and sour cream ice-cream, it’s elegantly layered and perfectly balanced.”
The review also recommended an “essential” side of nutty roast potatoes and admires the Mountains-via-Japan theme with sake-steamed mussels and house-made green tea noodles in a deeply savoury miso broth”.
Fumo is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner Friday to Sunday.
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