Angie Scarth-Johnson of Mt Victoria recently became the first Australian female to climb a grade 35 when she reached the top of 'Victimas del Futur' in Spain. Not the first 'woman', because she's only 17. The impressive climb is yet another achievement in a sporting career which has been nurtured on the walls of Blackheath and the Blue Mountains.
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A grade 35, or 9a, is considered an extremely difficult rock climb. The highest grade in the world is 9c, and Angie has dedicated her life to conquering such challenges.
"Climbing is very important to me," she said.
"I would be completely lost if I didn't climb and I can't imagine who I'd be without it. I've never known life without climbing."
So central is rock climbing to Angie's sense of self and her young life that it prompted her family to move to Blackheath when she was about seven, and later to Mt Victoria.
"I was born in Canberra and always loved climbing," said Angie. "We used to drive from Canberra to the Mountains about every second weekend so I could climb. Then my parents decided to move here permanently, because of the lifestyle and my climbing. Climbing and living in the Mountains changed our way of living. My parents were not really into the outdoors and no one in my family was into climbing."
They are now.
"I needed a climbing partner when I was young, so my parents became involved in climbing because of me," said Angie.
Angie is now a full-time rock climber. She completed her HSC by correspondence after attending Blackheath Public, Mt Victoria Public and Kindlehill School until year 7. From year 8, she was home-schooled to allow her to train, compete, travel and follow her passion to places such as New Zealand, Puerto Rico, Tonga, Japan, Mexico and Europe. She relishes the opportunity to experience local culture, and is grateful that rock walls are often situated by small towns and rural areas where a more authentic expression of local culture is evident.
The 2021 Australian winter saw her in Europe for multiple climbing events. Her Instagram followers saw her climb ropeless up the arch of a sandstone bridge in Avila, Spain before reaching the top and free-falling 15 metres into the river below.
For all of the excitement of international adventures, however, she loves coming home.
"The Blackheath/Mt Victoria area is beautiful," Angie said. "Not just the climbing walls but the views. Nothing looks like the mountains, there's something unique about the sandstone which makes the area memorable.
"I also like the sense of community here, and just loved walking outside as a young kid and being able to play in the street. I like the healthy lifestyle and the fresh air, and walking my dog in the bush."
Of course, climbing was, and is, the primary attraction.
"I have a love/hate relationship with the climbs around Blackheath. It's beautiful but the climbing is hard. A lot of the holds are far apart and you have to think a lot in every climb. It challenges you to use different techniques and to execute them well. My favourite climb here is 'Staring at the Sea'."
Angie has never prioritised competition, but when Sport Climbing made its Olympic debut in Tokyo earlier this year, she thought she might as well try to qualify.
"Outdoor climbing is my passion," she said. "I don't get the same feeling in competition, and in some way I feel like aspects of competitive indoor climbing are not really climbing. I'm definitely stronger at Lead because it's endurance based and similar to outdoor climbing."
Her limited experience in Speed and Bouldering dashed her hopes in 2021, but Paris 2024 is only three years away, and like the sport of climbing itself, Angie is still young enough to adapt.
"I've been climbing long enough to see the sport change enormously," Angie said, a veteran at age 17. Angie holds that rare distinction because she has been an elite climber since childhood. She has conquered many difficult and complex routes which defeat many adults, and has set various routes for others climbers to attempt.
"I enjoy bolting, and I've bolted a few climbs in the Mountains, although I think some of them have been closed since the fires. I'm looking forward to getting back and climbing them again."
One thing she never looks forward to, however, is climbing in the cold. So, how does she cope with a 'Bleakheath' winter?
"I climb in Nowra."
She also spends some Aussie winters in her mother's homeland of Spain, where she can perfect her Spanish, climb a huge variety of rock walls and keeps her fans informed through story writing, videos and social media updates. In rare moments of free time, she plays guitar, and she is completing online studies to become a veterinary assistant, motivated largely by her love of animals. She also holds a deep love for nature.
"I hope that through my updates and stories that people can see rock climbers care about nature and the outdoors, because it's where we play."
Her passion for the sport at which she excels remains at the forefront of her conversation, and is something she is determined to transmit to other people.
"I hope I can inspire people through what I do and show them how much climbing has given me. I appreciate what I have through climbing and it kept me out of trouble during my teenage years. I'm honoured that people know who I am because of the sport. People probably thought I was crazy to be climbing at such a young age, but it's good to be crazy."
